brainbucket

#1
There are many ways to go about doing the "Brains" design. The most common is to start by using a yellow base color. I wanted to try something different this time and start with a beige tone to try cut back on the over saturation of yellow.

#2
Once the beige base coat is thoroughly dry, mask off the entire helmet with 1 1/2" automotive grade (3M) masking tape. Pay special attention as to not get creases or folds in the masking tape. This would cause "bleed through" (paint overspray going under the tape.) when airbrushing.

#3
Draw out the design with a pencil. Using a pencil allows for changes made in the design if needed. In this photo you can see that I not only sketched the area that will be used for the "Brain" design but, I also set up for adding a broken skull.

#4
To expose the area that will be used to airbrush the brains design, use a new single edge razor blade. Follow the pencil design using what is called a "Kiss-Cut". A "Kiss-Cut" is applying just enough pressure to cut the tape cleanly without scoring the paint surface. If more pressure is needed to cut the tape, the blade has become dull. Start with a new blade.

#5
If the tape was cut properly it should be able to be removed easily and have a crisp edge. I prefer using a Weeding Tool (used for vinyl sign making) to remove masks versus a razor blade. A weeding tool will safely grab the tape corners and not gouge the surface.

#6
I'm not a big advocate of stencils but the "Brainiac" by Craig Fraser is a fun stencil to play with and simplifies doing the Brain design.

#7
Since the "Brainiac" stencil is going to be used over a curved surface, it is best to tape a corner of the stencil to the helmet. This will help maintain it's position as the stencil is rotated over the helmet. Normally, the beginning process of doing the brains is taught by using a Transparent Red Oxide. I chose to start with Xotic Colours Brown Candy to help speed up the process and give a deeper tone in the creases.

#8
This is what it should look like when the stencil is removed. This is basically all the stencil is needed for. It gives reference points to create the Brain design. From here on in everything will be done freehand. I've seen artist freehand the entire Brain design and in most cases it looks better than one created with a stencil. Keep in mind, you can't demand high prices for helmet painting so time-is-money. The faster the better.

#9
Continue with the Xotic Colours Brown Candy and begin creating the brain pattern. Basically, this part is like connecting-the-dots (see Back To Basics.). Don't worry about too many mistakes or uneven lines at this point. They will all be corrected when the "Layering" (multiple passes with a transparent color) process begins.

#10
Begin the layering process with Xotic Colours Chestnut Candy. I've used PPG Transparent Red Oxide for this part in the past and have seen it done with House of Kolors Rootbeer Candy. Make multiple passes with the Candy color to achieve definition. Each pass with a Candy color will darken the area being gone over.

#11.
With the same Candy color used to define the outline and folds, start by fading the candy away from the edges to give a roundness to the brain matter. Take the fade further and darker on one side of each fold to give a shadow effect.

#12
Go back to the reference points that were create with the stencil and extend the folds of the brain matter with the previous Candy color. By doing it in this order it will also help darken the gaps between the brain design.

#13
Continue applying the Candy until a deep tone value is achieved. This will have hidden any mistakes or uneven lines created from the beginning of the process. Try to avoid getting any paint build up in the center "Highlight" areas of the brain.

#15
This next step is normally done by using a Transparent Violet. Creating "shadow" definition can now be done by using a Candy Black. In the past, an artist would avoid black because it was too dominate of a color to use for shadows without being overbearing. Xotic Colours "candy black" is applied to define the spacing and gaps in the brain.

#14
Remove the Nozzle Cap from the airbrush and create small half-moon creases using a "dagger stroke" with the Chestnut Candy.

#16
Finish by adding white highlights to the center of the brain matter using Xotic Colours "White Airbrush Base". I like the Xotic white because it is the first white paint I've found that the pigment has been so finely ground that it will not spit coming out of the airbrush.

#17
The area for the "Exposed Broken Skull" was pre-cut at the same time as the area for the brain. Using some Stretch Mask by Artool the brain was masked up for protection. Paint the skull area with a light grey tone. Add a few drops of black to the grey to make a mid tone of grey and fade up from the bottom.

#18
Outline the entire skull area with Xotic Colors Black Airbrush Base. Continue using the black to create shadows. Do a gradual fade from the bottom up. Pick a light source (most common, upper left corner.) and airbrush drop shadows that will fall from the overall background color. Add some cracks in the skull.

Half Helmets are commonly referred to as "Brain Buckets" by Harley-Davidson enthusiasts. What better to do with one than custom paint it with a exposed brain. This is not a new concept but I figured I would do it again for all the new airbrush artists wanting to learn a quick and profitable design. This is a simple way of doing this design using a stencil.

#19
Remove the mask covering the brain and create drop shadows that will fall from the entire background color. Remember your chosen light source. Add white highlights to the top of the broken skull fragments and cracks.

#20
Mask off the brain and skull. I prefer to use Transfer Tape (Conform R-Tape) to cover an illustration because of its low tack. Low Tack is little adhesion properties and will not pull off airbrushed areas. The background was painted with a True Blue Pearl base coat and a Passion Purple Pearl basecoat was faded from back to front.

#21
Outline the entire masked areas with Xotic Colors Black Airbrush Base. Continue using the black to create cracks. The cracks are to give the illusion that the helmet was broken by an impact and exposed the brain and skull through the missing pieces.

#22
Add highlights to the cracks by removing the Nozzle Cap and using Xotics Colours White Airbrush paint. A clogged tip or a spit with the white would be really unappealing over a dark surface like this.

#22
Remove all the masking. Touch up any imperfections before wiping the surface down with a wax and grease remover. Now it's ready to go in the booth for several wet coats of Clear Coat.

Steven Craig is the owner and head painter of SKC CUSTOMZ in Lake Havasu City, AZ. In the past Steven has won the House of Kolor Prestigeous Painter Award and was a 1st Place winner of Dupont's Hot Hues Awards. He most recently was awarded the Matrix System's FX Grand Prize Award. Steve paints a wide range
of jobs from guitars to large off shore boats. Visit his web site at

Airbrush : Iwata HP-BH, Custom Micron B
Spray Guns: Iwata LPH400 and Iwata LPH300
Paint Media: PPG, Xotic Colours, Dupont and Matrix Systems
Surface Media: Everything I can get paint to stick to.
Masking : R-Tape and 3M Masking Tapes
Projector: Artograph
Lighting : Natural and Florescent. Spray-Line and Spray King Paint Booths